Friday, May 8, 2009

Heading for higher ground

So as winter approaches in the southern hemisphere, obviously the days are shorter and the temps dip to a cool 60 degrees at night. One positive that I read about in many of the guidebooks I used was that wintertime in Brasil tends to be dry season. Like with many other things, I have found that these references have generalized a bit too much with regards something as intangible as weather patterns in a country the size of Brasil ie.... IT'S FREAKING RAINING A TON IN THE NORTHEAST!!!

I spent a good week between my arrival in Recife and escape to higher ground here in the interior of Bahia state dodging the deluge. An absolutely huge and unexpected positive which alleviated this inconvenience was the fact that my cousin Patrick's new in-laws have properties scattered about this region. I was a bit weary of hitting the road alone again so it was spectacular to have his mother and sister in-law meet me at the airport in Recife and put me up for a week in more than comfortable settings in Recife and Maceió (further down the coast to the south).

From Maceió I caught an overnight bus to Salvador, Bahia. My time here consisted of frequent trips to the neighboorhood of Pelhourinho (the historic center). This is where the Portuguese established their first colonial capital (before moving it to the more swanky digs in Rio as they escaped Napolean's onslaught). This influence is apparent in the archetechture, cobblestone streets....an element which is a little more "new world/Brasilian" are all of the favela kids high on glue scurrying about and hustling for change. Another presence in the town squares are the Tourist Police with semi-automatic weapons. During my frequent trips to this neighboorhood I would just make sure to sight them up and make a bee line in their direction before scoping out the next viewpoint for photos etc.. Maybe I was being paranoid...the hostel owner certainly was in his frequent warnings about the area...but in the end I had no hassles at all...I caught an awesome capoeira/folklore show one evening (Capoeira being a "non-contact" fight/dance which is the national sport of Brasil NOT SOCCER WHAT???) and saw some interesting museum exhibits while still trying to keep dry from the lingering rain showers.

Things are starting to improve in terms of the weather as I have finally made it to the interior for the first time here in Chapada Diamantina National Park. This is a place of mystical landscapes including : Mesas, caves, waterfalls, rivers and their subsequent caverns. I am currently staying in the former diamond mining boomtown of Lençois. Obviously the mines have all but dried up and it's a bit touristy here but I hear roumers of French Bohemian expats keeping a cave colony and they say that Jimmy Page still has a place here when he wants to dissapear for a bit. So there is definitely something unique about this place. Today I was able to medidate in a cave, swim behind a waterfall, and catch an incredible sunset from the top of a tabletop mountain (and a full moon to boot). All in all, life on the road is pretty sweet and I am going to have to make the most of this experience in my final 3 weeks!!

Before my scheduled arrival in Seattle on the 3rd of June I plan to stick to the interior for a bit more as I head to the state of Minas Gerais for about 4 days. Afterwhich I am heading back to Florianópolis (believe it or not) for about a week before making my way to the coast between São Paulo and Rio, where I catch my return flight.....I think ;)

Tchau 4 now

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